Author(s): Jan Shenton
This book offers a comprehensive introduction for all those wishing to design and weave a wide range of fabrics from scratch. Starting with the basics of woven textile design, the book looks at how to draw up and interpret records and notation, before explaining how different types of cloth are constructed, starting with the most basic of plain weaves, through twill weaves, textured weaves such as seersucker, crepe and corded cloths to more complicated designs created with extra threads woven in to produce a wide range of patterns. Illustrated throughout with diagrams, weaving plans and examples from contemporary designers, the book also includes advice on using different yarns and colours to create stunning and unique designs. Offering clear, practical advice, this book will show you how to interpret your initial concepts and develop your ideas on the loom.
Jan Shenton is a weaver whose designs are bought by manufacturers and design houses in America, Canada, Europe and Japan. Her clients are high profile companies and include Louis Vuitton, Donna Karan, Polo Ralph Lauren, Etro, Weave Corporation, American Pacific, Cone Jacquards, Custo, Salvatore Ferragamo, Diane von Furstenberg, Etincelle Couture and Lululemon. She is a lecturer in woven textiles at Loughborough University.
Chapter 1 Records and Notation The loom / The warp / The warping plan / Spreading the warp onto the loom / Threading plan or draft / The reed plan / The lifting plan / The weft plan / Finishing details / Inspiration and visual research Chapter 2 Plain weaves Plain weaves over two and four shafts / Plain weave variations / Basic ribbed cloths / Cramming and spacing / Hopsack weave Chapter 3 Twill weaves Twills using a straight draft over four shafts / Twills using a point draft over four shafts / Distorted twills / Combining twills / The twill angle / Satin and sateen weaves Chapter 4 Colour and weave Plain weaves / Twill weaves Chapter 5 Warp and weft distortions Grouped weft distortions / Grouped warp distortions / Single end distortions / Creating a diagonal line across the weave Chapter 6 Textured weaves Honeycomb / Mock leno / Seersucker / Crepe weaves / Corded cloths Chapter 7 Extra warp and weft patterning Extra warp patterning / Extra weft patterning Chapter 8 Double Cloths Basic plain interchange / Basic plain double interchange / Double cloth using other structures / Pleats / Ribbons and ruffles / Pockets Glossary / Further Reading / Index / Picture credits and acknowledgements